Northwind Reptiles Care Sheets

Caging:

In my experience, the caging requirements for this species are relatively simple. I keep my adult hognose in Phillips polycarbonate sweater boxes which are placed in a rack system made by Boaphile (www.boaphileplastics.com). The boxes measure roughly 16” x 10” x 4”. For substrate, I use aspen shavings. I keep a water dish in the cage at all times and provide them with a length of PVC pipe cut in half along its length for a hide box.

Heating/Lighting:

The ambient temperature (non-brumation) in the room is ~72 - 75°F. Heat is provided with 4” Flexwatt heat tape. The tape is affixed to each shelf in a 4” wide groove in the back of the shelf such that when the sweater boxes are pushed into the rack, the back 4-5” of each box rests on top of the heat tape. I use a Helix digital thermostat to regulate the temperature of the heat tape and I set the temperature to 85°F (non-brumation). If set up properly, there should be about a 10-15° temperature gradient in the cage. Fluorescent lighting is provided 12 hours/day (non-brumation) and is gradually decreased to 8 hours/day during brumation. Daylight period is gradually increased to 12 hours/day after brumation is over.

Humidity:

I have not found it necessary to provide any additional humidity for this species (except during times of egg deposition) under the conditions stated above. Some people provide a hide box filled with moist sphagnum moss at all times or during periods when the snakes are in shed. This is something that may or may not be necessary depending on the area of the house/building in which the animals are housed. If it is generally humid in the room, a moist box is probably not necessary. If a snake appears to have trouble shedding then a moist hide box may prove to be useful when the snake goes into a shed cycle. I do provide a moist hide box for hatchlings and for females due to lay eggs.

Feeding:

I usually feed my adults every week to two weeks. Hopper size mice or small adult mice have proven to be sufficient food sources for the hognose adults that I have keep. Brumation/Breeding: Two years of age is usually a good age to begin breeding hognose snakes, assuming they are large enough to breed (~16-18” and of decent weight). However, if any snake looks unhealthy or underweight, it is most likely not a good candidate for breeding. My rule of thumb: if you have any concern that a snake may not be of breeding size, do not attempt to breed it.

Cycling the animals:

At the end of September I start the cooling process. This gradual decrease in temperature continues until the middle or end of November, when a final brumation temperature is reached. I prefer a slow cooling process because I feel that it is more natural. I usually reduce the temperature of the hot spot by 2 degrees every week until it gets to 65°. The next week I simply shut the thermostat off. From that point until the middle or end of November, I try to get the ambient temperature to 55-60° by opening the window in the room slightly. The ability to use this technique will obviously depend on the temperature where you live. If you live in a warm area, even in the winter, an air conditioner may prove helpful. If you live in an area that gets extremely cold, you may need to monitor the temperature very closely to make sure it does not get too cold when you start opening windows.

starting temperatures: 85° (heated area) ~72 - 75°(ambient)
final temperatures: 55-60° ambient without a heated area

At the end of January I start warming the animals back up. This continues until the beginning of March, when the temperature reaches 85° (heated area) and ~72 - 75° (ambient). I have not found it necessary to provide any sort of night time drop in temperature, although other breeders and keepers utilize a drop in night time temperatures in order to simulate the natural environment of these animals.

starting temperatures: 55-60° ambient without a heated area
final temperatures: 85° (heated area) ~72° (ambient)

Notes:

Cooling down and warming up are done gradually.
The last meal before brumation is offered before cooling begins (my animals usually go off feed on their own at the end of July/beginning of August anyway).
The first meal after brumation is offered only after the heated area reaches 81°.
The male and female are put together after the female sheds (as close to the time of her shed as possible).
I keep the male and female together for 4-5 days at a time and then separate them for feedings.
I repeat this cycle until they seem disinterested in each other.
Feed frozen/thawed rodents when possible.

**Please note: Techniques and protocols for keeping and breeding any species vary from person to person. This care sheet represents the methods that I, personally, have found to be effective in successfully keeping and breeding this species in my facility.